AAA to AA

Pyro_fred · Newbie Joined: 31 Aug 2005 Posts: 11

I am using a TI-84 Plus and I have a problem,

I read on the Internet that you could convert your calculator to use AA batteries instead of AAA's. When I tried this, my calculator worked for a bit, then I shut it off so I could make the wiring more secure. When I tried to turn my calc back on, it didn't work. I used a multi-meter to check if I fried a connection, and it seems I did. Is there any way to fix this problem easily without buying a new calc? I'm not worried about the warrenty since that expired a month ago.
Please help! Cool

Arcane Wizard · Posted: 01 Sep 2005 12:38:26 am Post subject:

Depends on what connection/part you fried.

DJ Omnimaga · Posted: 01 Sep 2005 07:01:38 am Post subject:

DigiTan · Posted: 01 Sep 2005 03:07:59 pm Post subject:

It might just the contrast resetting. I ran mine off AAs and regulated wall power for 1000 hours straight and nothing bad happened. And I'm 100% sure TI has all their calcs reverse-current protected. What were the exact readings from the meter?

Pyro_fred · Newbie Joined: 31 Aug 2005 Posts: 11

I just used the setting on the multi-meter that checked for a conection, there was no reading on it. And I checked for the contrast setting, but that wasn't it. But schools starting so i'll have to get a calc soon (that's $130! Sad

)

[edit]

I just got ny dad to open up my calc and it seems that I have burnt a fuse. This fuse has "1/2" written on it. My calc should work if i replace this fuse. Does anyone know where I can find a replacment? I just hope it's cheap.

DigiTan · Posted: 01 Sep 2005 09:11:16 pm Post subject:

These fuses must be some new feature, I didn't notice one in my (very old) TI-82. Is this the glass tube type or plastic. Fuses sell in the penny ranges by digikey and mouser. The real mystery is how half an amp got through in the first place. Or maybe this was a defective fuse. :confused:

Pyro_fred · Newbie Joined: 31 Aug 2005 Posts: 11

The fuse was plastic. About the half an amp, I may have shorted the system somehow. At least the the fuses are cheap. Do you know if there is anyplace that sells them near Calgary, AB?

DigiTan · Posted: 01 Sep 2005 09:51:59 pm Post subject:

Nah, there's probably a surplus shops, but they're hard to find without calling every manufacturing shop in town. If you're worried about shipping there are few vendors that will waive some fees for first-time or low-weight orders.

Pyro_fred · Newbie Joined: 31 Aug 2005 Posts: 11

I looked on the sites you mentioned, but i couldn't seem to find what I was looking for. I'm probably just bad at searching. :biggrin:

DigiTan · Posted: 01 Sep 2005 10:10:22 pm Post subject:

Oh, for those you have to enter something vague like "fuses," then choose from the category list, then get to the (main) search engine where you add filters until you're left with just a few products that match. Sometimes the .pdf files of the catelog are faster.

Pyro_fred · Newbie Joined: 31 Aug 2005 Posts: 11

I just went to the catalog and I think a found what I need. I just need to find out more info about teh fuse in my calc. All i really know is what it says for a rating.

alexrudd · Posted: 01 Sep 2005 10:24:01 pm Post subject:

Heh, sounds like what I did to my (old) cassette player. Trying to use a DC converter for a laptop in the jack for DC inpur, the player just made some beeping noises while the cable was connected and then stopped working. Only later did I realize the stupidity of my mistake:
DC Input for Cassette Player: 3V (2 AA batteries)
DC Output for laptop converter: 19V. (Car battery is 9 or 12, I think.)

Anyway, do you have a saudering iron? A replacement part will do you no good if you can't attach it.

Pyro_fred · Newbie Joined: 31 Aug 2005 Posts: 11

Yeah, my dad has a saudering iron, i just hope I can get the blasted thing to work Smile

Ray Kremer · Member Joined: 16 Feb 2004 Posts: 237

"Saudering iron"? Ouch. It's soldering. :)

And if you've never used one before you may want to find someone who has do to your repair work on a circuitboard like that.

Pyro_fred · Newbie Joined: 31 Aug 2005 Posts: 11

Sorry about the spelling, I can never really spell right. Yes, I have used the iron before, but I think my dad would know how to use it when dealing with circuit boards.

alexrudd · Posted: 02 Sep 2005 06:07:11 pm Post subject:

Raster · Active Member Joined: 17 May 2004 Posts: 529

I remember haveing both AA's and AAA's on my TI-83+ . Then after the first pop of one of the AAA's, I put a switch to switch between the AA's and AAA's

NEVER!!! Mix AA's and AAA's paralleled togeather. You may loose your hand Dry

DigiTan · Posted: 02 Sep 2005 07:58:40 pm Post subject:

Ah, that's not so. AA and AAA paralleled is the exact same setup I used in projects E-16 and E-26 and they have absolutely no risk. ...Unless it hits your tounge. You only have to make sure they are isolated from each other with diodes to prevent any reverse-charging, otherwise those batteries become firecrackers.

Anyway, for the fuse, you mainly need four specs: current, voltage, size and delay. Current and voltage you already have: .5 amps and 6 volts (and greater). Any generic fuse with no "slow-blow" delay should work. And the size, you will have to measure manually. If I had a picture I might be able to give you the right part number. Before you go through all this, I would verify that the fuse is actually blown by doing on ohm check on it. The ohm meter should read non-zero.

Pyro_fred · Newbie Joined: 31 Aug 2005 Posts: 11

My dad checked the fuse with the muti-meter, and no current got through. Anyway, my dad went to a shop in the city and got the part ordered that way. I should get the calculator back within a week. I thank all of you for your help. At first I thought I would need a new calc. Thanks Very Happy

United-TI Archives -> Calculator Tech Support
	» » View previous topic :: View next topic

	» » View previous topic :: View next topic
Page 1 of 1	» All times are UTC - 5 Hours