I did a test print today of the whole case. Although I aborted it when it was just about done with the flat part of the case, it taught me a lot of things for the next attempt. First, I can't see any option besides printing the case upside-down: otherwise the engraved layers and lightning bolt come out very poorly indeed, as the bridges across the letters do not stay flat and straight. I also think that perhaps using a bed temperature of 95C for the first layer and 90C for the remainder was a poor choice, as the corners and edges started to curl and lift by the third or fourth layer.

Edit: On the plus side, the first layer came out really well with a z-offset of 0.60mm! Almost no plastic got dragged along with the extruder, and the final surface is very smooth.

*bump* My latest updates are sufficiently much about case-printing and sufficiently little about 3D printer problems that I've put them in the slidecase thread: good-quality partial slidecase print using CuraEngine.
Well I've finally gotten some time to play with the one we got my dad and got two objects printed. At first it seemed like I would have the same offsetting issues that Kerm had and my first print the bottom layer was a bit smooshed (see first image) so I was all prepared to be tweaking offsets for the next prints. THen I went to print a second smaller object and the print head was all over the place so I disconnected repetier-host power cycled the printer and redid the auto head level and it was way off.



I then spent like another hour or two trying to re-align it ( I really should label the + and - directions on the actual adjustment nobs) and once it was back level it turns out I won't need the G92 Z shift at all which is great because it means I don't have to worry if that is Reset with G28 or not. If it isn't reset then you will have to make sure to only call the G92 Z for the first program after a powercycle and not later ones.

Either way the second print came out great, at least once I got enough glue down for it to stick. It would have been nice if the first print filled in a few of the thinner areas better but I think I just need to tweak slic3r settings some more to get it working well.

Sorry I don't have better pictures of the second print but currently my GF has it.

This isn't relevant to the machine itself, but to 3D printing:

http://www.sciencealert.com/this-new-device-recycles-plastic-bottles-into-3d-printing-material

A way to recycle plastic back into usable material for 3D printers is kind of a cool thing.
Thanks for sharing; very cool! Actually, the headlines on both that website and the site it links to are misleading. If you read the article, they're primarily talking about melting down the prototypes you 3D-print into more filament to re-print the items, kind of like being able to reclaim the ink from your pages from a 2D printer if you made a mistake and need to re-print the pages. From a technical standpoint, you wouldn't quite be able to melt (HDPE?) plastic bottles for a 3D printer, as it would be difficult to get (for example) non-ABS plastic to print well with a printer intended for ABS plastic. Still, cool concept!
Well, if you watch the video, he also shows where you'll be able to buy these small plastic bead like things for roughly $5 a bag or something insanely cheap compared to a spool of the plastic filament, and create your own, usable filament, in any color. I didn't see the video until after posting, and forgot to update my post with that.

Regardless, it's a heck of an idea that needs to be implemented asap. I agree that plastic filling the dumps is a horrible idea! :p
I don't know if this is really the appropriate place for this, but have you guys seen this?
http://3dprint.com/51566/carbon3d-clip-3d-printing/

Basically, a totally different way of 3D printing which looks super cool. Here's a video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=VTJq9Z5g4Jk
merthsoft wrote:
I don't know if this is really the appropriate place for this, but have you guys seen this?
http://3dprint.com/51566/carbon3d-clip-3d-printing/

Basically, a totally different way of 3D printing which looks super cool. Here's a video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=VTJq9Z5g4Jk

Oh my gosh, that's amazing! Razz I couldn't understand it at first, but now I kind of understand it! That is way better than the current 3d printers Smile I'm gonna have to show this to my engineering teacher or something if she hasn't already seen it
Nice find, that is some impressive precision on the micron scale of printing. I have yet to view the video, but I am wondering how large of an object they can get up to (Specifically, there have been attempts to print records with high-precision 3D printers, but due to materials and printer error margins, the sound quality wasn't the best, but still worked).
Hey guys! Does PLA filament for a Makerbot take superglue without dissolving? My case broke and I want to know if I can glue it back together. Thanks!

Followed that link. That's the same kind I'm making!
*bump* This is for BrandonW's benefit: my prolog/epilog G-code that I use with CuraEngine (not Slic3r). Please note that my Z-adjustment may not be relevant to you:

Prolog:
Code:
M140 S{BED} ; Bed (no wait)
M106 S255 ; Start fan
G90 ; set absolute coordinates
G28 ; home all axis
M104 S{TEMP0} ; Extruder (no wait)
M190 S{BED} ; Bed (wait)
M109 S{TEMP0} ; Extruder (wait)
M117 Start
M300 s1000 p400 ; Beep
M300 s1500 p400
M300 s2000 p400
M300 s2500 p400
M117 Cleaning
M100 ; Cleaning
; v--- set Z-offset
G28 ; home all axis
G1 Z10.6 ; move to 10.6 mm above Z=0
G92 Z10 ; set the current position to Z=10
; ^--- set Z-offset
G1 Z5 F1500
G1 X0 Y15 F1000
G1 X30 Y12 F1000
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
G1 Z0.3 F4800.000
G1 X170 Y12 E14 F1000
G1 X185 Y12 F1000
M117 Printing

Code:
M117 Done
G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off Bed
G90 ; Absolute
G28 X0 Y0 ; home
M117 Down Bed
G1 Z200 ; Lower bed
M117 Cleaning
M100 ;Cleaning
M84 ; Disable motors
M117 Cooling
M190 S55 ; Bed (cooling)
M116 ; Wait for all temperatures
M140 S0 ; turn off Bed
M117 Pick up piece
M300 s2500 p400 ; Beep
M300 s2000 p400
M300 s1500 p400
M300 s1000 p400
M84 ; Disable motors
M117 Printer Ready
So I printed a webcam holder for the davinci printer. It snaps into the case its rather awesome. I do not have picrues of it but instead I have a gif of octoPrint taking a timelapse of me printing a test item! (it's a glorified washer)

http://i.imgur.com/oDy2vXY.gif

Oh yeah more on octopi its a web based frontend for 3dprinters that runs on (in this case) my raspberrypi! Its pretty nifty Very Happy
double post for fun~
Timelapse of me printing a spool holder for a filament holder Very Happy
How have I not found this thread before...
I have been setting up a DaVinci 1.0 AiO as a pay-per-use printer for a library in my town.
I wrote a few scripts that can print gcode on the latest unmodified firmware with no hardware modifications, as well as get information about the printer like temperature and filament usage. I connected the printer to a webserver so that people could upload STL files and print them while keeping track of filament usage per person.
Currently, a print still has to be manually OK'd as there is no way for people to monitor the printer in case the print fails, but I plan to add a webcam that could be used to monitor the status of the print. I also have to work out a few bugs with the monitoring script that occasionally stop the printer from responding until it is restarted. After that, the printer could be run automatically (except removing the object, calibrating, and replacing filament) with no arbitrary software.
  
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