Any major differences between the da Vinci 1.0 and 2.0 besides the second print head? Since I'm getting this for someone else as a gift (I'm getting help on the cost so its not that strange) I want to know a bit more before I dive in. Hopefully this leads to the giftee buying a Makerbot or RepRap kit and giving me the da Vinci to play with afterwards.
TheStorm wrote:
Any major differences between the da Vinci 1.0 and 2.0 besides the second print head? Since I'm getting this for someone else as a gift (I'm getting help on the cost so its not that strange) I want to know a bit more before I dive in. Hopefully this leads to the giftee buying a Makerbot or RepRap kit and giving me the da Vinci to play with afterwards.
I believe that the Da Vinci 2.0 just includes the two print heads. There's also the Da Vinci 1.0 AiO, which includes a 3D scanner, but I doubt that's as useful.

comicIDIOT wrote:
Is this hollow or solid?
It has a cool honeycomb pattern that the printer adds to make the piece more solid and stable. You can control the density and presence of this "solid" fill.

Sorunome wrote:
Is it bigger on the inside?

Also, now you have to paint her blue Wink
It has more surface area on the inside! Yes, I do; I need to find the correct paints for ABS plastic. Any advice on this would be appreciated.
Well I've officially ordered one for my Dad for X-Mas, hopefully Geekboy gets his tutorial written up before then so I can help him get it converted over to being useable with slic3r and Repetier and then let him go. He has access to Solidworks through work so making his own models should be pretty easy.
TheStorm wrote:
Well I've officially ordered one for my Dad for X-Mas, hopefully Geekboy gets his tutorial written up before then so I can help him get it converted over to being useable with slic3r and Repetier and then let him go. He has access to Solidworks through work so making his own models should be pretty easy.
Nice work! I have so far experimented with AutoCAD, FreeCAD, and Sketchup, and I found none of the three were well-suited to making models for the printer. The best was AutoCAD, since I have AutoCAD experience, but the process of converting models to a single solid to export to STL is tricky.

Some new photos! First, what happens when your bed is un-level by about half a millimeter and you try to print a 0.1mm-layer-height TARDIS. The plastic was too thick on one side and too thin on the other, and the extruder was dragging plastic blobs all over the place. The second photograph shows what happens when a 0.2mm layer height (left) and 0.3mm layer height (right) TARDIS are compared. Note that the left model has more steps in the roof, more detail in the (illegible) POLICE BOX text, and a better light on top.



And as requested by Geekboy, the control PCB that the Da Vinci 1.0 uses. Note the unpopulated spaces for components to enable control of a second extruder.

What sort of models/parts are you making? Autodesk Inventor might be something to look at for making random solid parts. Not sure about the exporting as it has been years since I touched it.
I know that my upcoming projects will include (1) a puppy and (2) a framework for holding two circuit boards and an LCD together in a stack.
Thanks Kerm for the picture you indeed have the same Motherboard mine does which is easily modified (the new ones have a harder to get to erase jumper).

Also awesome tardis! tho the print quality on both of those is rather meh going to print a tardis on mine soon and we can see how they compare!

I have looked into openscad and freecad both are kinda eh to me but I have not played enough with them to make a real decision yet.




Printer on hcwp last week Nuff said!

Ok honestly needed a lot of trimming to get kinda happy Dunno if printer or bad file But hey it does work!
That looks boss Very Happy

I'm still waiting on seeing a replacement slide case with Cemetech logo on it Wink
So this is my tardis. She isnt the best but for a first shot with experimental settings I will take it Very Happy





sadly her whole roof got messed up. Mix of having to hot of a hotend+its moving wayyy to fast. Needs to cut it down to about half speed for the roof Sad still pretty cool print cute little tardis :3
The wobbly edges makes me think either the extrusion bead width isn't consistent or the XY accuracy could use some improvement but overall its not bad. I wonder how hard it would be to mod it such that all 3 axis are threaded rod instead of just Z.

I also wonder if some axis mapping/transformation could help especially on the Z axis for getting consistent layer heights, as in moving the Z and then using something to verify its actual position to compensate for the imperfections in the threaded rod. Yes its likely overkill but it could allow a cheaper 3D printer to achieve better results through software.
Great job on the slide case, geekboy! Are you saying that the model needs to be adjusted a bit to fit properly, that it didn't print accurately, or both? I'm less enthused about the TARDIS: although details like the sign on the door showed up a lot better for you than with my XYZware-sliced and GCoded model, the roof came out a lot worse, and I'm not sure the overall quality is much higher. In fact, I think the higher temperature might be solely responsible for the improvements. Just my two cents, of course.

Some updates from my end: first, I went to a craft store yesterday afternoon and bought acrylic paints to experiment with painting ABS. I bought a set of twelve basic colors and a brush, as well as specifically a bottle of a TARDIS-like blue color. To experiment, I first painted my star vase, my first successful print, with a light layer of the TARDIS color:



I used the brush to paint most of this TARDIS, a de-fuzzed Q-tip to paint around the windows and the top of the light, and a straightened staple to draw the lines on the light and across the windows. I also used a tiny bit of white paint on the staple to touch up the panes of the windows. I'm very pleased with the result, given the size of the model.



Finally, I've begun to experiment with printing Samoyed dogs, just because. This one was tiny (as you can see from the dime), but the quality was surprisingly good. In fact, the worst offenses were under the muzzle, under the belly, and under the tip of the tail, which I mostly chalk up to a lack of supports. I have my printer working on a 150%-scaled print with medium-density supports this evening, and I'll show you guys how it came out tomorrow.

What is the advertised resolution of the printer / how well does it match up with your experience so far? The stepping looks pretty similar to what I saw on the low-end 3-axis mill we had at our highschool. Assuming it's filament based, how well does bridging work?

Also, Shapeways has some nice software tools for ensuring a good quality mesh that I've used for validing exports from SketchUp in the past.
elfprince13 wrote:
What is the advertised resolution of the printer / how well does it match up with your experience so far? The stepping looks pretty similar to what I saw on the low-end 3-axis mill we had at our highschool. Assuming it's filament based, how well does bridging work?
The z-axis is supposed to be no worse than 0.1mm (see my pups below), and the x and y axis are supposed to be significantly less than that for smooth curves. I believe there's a tiny amount of play in the belts that makes the layers not perfectly line up.

Quote:
Also, Shapeways has some nice software tools for ensuring a good quality mesh that I've used for validing exports from SketchUp in the past.
Good to know; thanks for the tip. I'll take a look.

I printed a larger Samoyed, at 150% scale, with 0.1mm layers, and for the first time, supports. The first image shows the raw print with the supports present (including between the body and tail), while the second image is the Samoyed with supports removed, smoothed with acetone, and two holes repaired. It's standing next to the smaller Samoyed and the low-res TARDIS.

Do the supports come off easily?
merthsoft wrote:
Do the supports come off easily?
They do. They're very thin and fragile, and only attached to the piece by a tiny piece of plastic, so you barely need to touch them for them to crumble off. I was pleasantly surprised: I expected to need to cut them off.
They come off so easy becase they are printed ~.15mm below the surface they are supporting. as to give it a place to rest but not adhere.
That's pretty cool. I like the glossy appearance of the larger samoyed, which I assume is the result of your acetoning it?
elfprince13 wrote:
That's pretty cool. I like the glossy appearance of the larger samoyed, which I assume is the result of your acetoning it?
That's precisely why it looks glossy. It gives the ABS itself a smoother appearance, as well as smoothing the boundaries between the layers by dissolving the acetone a bit.

Here's the current state of my Samoyed, with some painting. I need to adjust the eyes one last time before I'm happy with it. Also, I tried to work on modeling a TI-84+CSE slide case this evening. Sketchup is really getting on my nerves: first, I had to restart my computer after installing it to get it to not crash immediately on startup, then I discovered that Sketchup wouldn't let me perform a subtraction operation without buying the very expensive Pro version. I'm going to switch back to AutoCAD for now for the slide case modeling.

Blender doesn't work for this application?
  
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