Kryptonic Dragon on Discord wrote:
Using a 100W, 10-foot Dell laptop power adapter for a raspberry pi feels a tad overkill but I don't have anything else that outputs more than 5V/2A...


Instead of a new costly 24V power supply, you could reuse a few 19-20V laptop power bricks?
Help, I got myself stuck trying to figure out which 2A continuous, 24V-5V buck converters I should buy. I previously purchased these DROK 12V-5V buck converters (which I need to return), but from the 24V versions I'm considering, none seem to stand out (especially since they're mostly adjustable):
  • eBoot Mini MP1584EN DC-DC Buck Converter Adjustable Power Supply Module 24V to 12V 9V 5V 3V (6 Pack) (also comes in a 12-pack): $1.17 to $1.38 per piece. 3A max, claims 92% max efficiency, which means nothing. Seem decent from reviews, QA sounds iffy, at least one reviewer claims they fail safely (i.e., not passing Vin -> Vout). As with others, I'm worried about the warning to not use them with small/zero load, although since the WS2812B uses ~400-500uA when not illuminating, perhaps the >=13.2mA a set of 33 would draw together would be enough to eliminate any danger. A few reviews claim the filter cap can't handle 24V and pops; others say it works. Output voltage potentiometer is apparently very finicky.
  • Wolfwhoop PW-D Control Buck Converter 6-24V to 5V 1.5A: $2.50 each. Extremely tiny, would fit well in my channels. Reviews seem more consistently high, but with needing some 39 of these, that would set me back $100. Can only deliver up to 1.5A. Has JST connectors that I'd probably want to remove (or start incorporating!).
  • 5v Regulator, DROK 5pcs Mini Voltage Reducer DC 4.5-24V 12V 24V: $1.80 each. Also very small, although it has a pot, solder jumpers are provided for fixed output voltages. Sounds like the output voltage drops a bit under load, but I'm not toooo concerned about that.
  • 5V Regulator Module Mini Voltage Reducer Adjustable DC 4.5 - 24V 12V 24V to 5V 3A Volt Buck Converter: $0.85 to $1.60 each. Looks like a clone of the DROK regulator (or vice versa?), reviews complain about manufacturing quality a bit, but potentially perfectly serviceable and a great price ($34 for everything I need).
  • Valefod High Efficiency 3.0-40V to 1.5-35V Buck Converter: $1.60 to $1.83 each. Much bigger in every dimension than the above, uses bigger LM2596 (supposedly), while the others were possibly using the MP2315. Although they won't fit into channels (which have a 10.5mm surface for the strips, and even the two outside surfaces are only 16mm deep, the slightly more robust look appeals to me.


Any feedback on these or other options would be greatly appreciated!
Given we previously noted that DROK isn't completely no-name and seems to be decent quality, I'd think basically just swapping your 12V ones for similar 24V seems fine and easy. I'd agree that the "weewooday" ones are probably DROK clones, which might be okay if you're feeling lucky. Personally, I'd avoid the clones.

It also looks like they're a little cheaper if bought directly from DROK.
Thanks for the feedback, Tari! I've purchased 5 of them for experimentation. In the end, I grabbed them directly from Amazon, because free Prime shipping has a bigger impact on the price than the lower per-item price from DROK directly.
*bump* Components have arrived, including a Mean Well supply. Everything works together: the Mean Well produces nice clean 24.00V (it has a little pot to dial it in) and doesn't dip down measurably under load, the tiny DROK buck converters do a good job of generating 5V up to (so far) 1.3A, although the inductor gets quite toasty delivering 1.3A continuous, and an Arduino happily lights up the LEDs.

However, I'm consistently seeing each WS2812B only pull 33.4mA at 5.00V when instructed (by FastLED) to display white. I made sure the FastLED brightness adjustment is set to 255, I've checked the input voltage, and I'm still seeing barely half of the current draw I expect. By turning on elements individually, I'm seeing 5mA-8mA for the red element at full brightness, 5mA-10mA for the green element at full brightness, and 11mA-13mA for the blue element - with a sum that's pretty much always 33mA-34mA, so the variance in the other measurements is probably the precision of my Fluke 79 multimeter. Based on a quick Googling and finding this blog post, it looks like I have the kind that uses less current (??). Which changes my power budgeting a bit.
Glad to find out you have the low current versions, that simplifies things. Also, post pics when you can, we would love to see your room lit up like an RGB disco!
It definitely simplifies things and/or gives me a larger safety margin (if I choose to use the same number of buck converters and the same wire gauge), but I worry I'm paying the price of half the luminance: 33 LEDs on at full white doesn't produce a *huge* amount of illumination.

I'll post pics when I can, but I'm nowhere near the full setup yet. The next item to figure out will be how I can mount the buck converters + LED strip + power wires in the aluminum channel (3D printed brackets?) and how I can use the aluminum channel as a heatsink for the buck converters.
I also meant to share my power results in more detail. I tried measuring current and voltage with a strip, powering a selection at mostly white (and once using FastLED's FairyLight color, FFE42D). In these example, I had placed the LED strip into an aluminum channel, but hadn't removed the backing on the adhesive strip to attach it, and thus I expect that heat transfer was not as good as it will be in the finished version.


Code:
1.586A - 60x FairyWhite. Buck converter gets warm to the touch in air, dissipated by touching it

2.214A - 60x White. Buck converter gets hot to the touch in air, bearable to touch.
2.108A - 57x White. Same. \
2.044A - 55x White. Same. |- Channel gets warm as well.
2.005A - 54x White. Same. /
  
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